A Travellerspoint blog

Capurgana and Sapzurro

Raw Paradise!

all seasons in one day 28 °C

Before leaving Medellin, the forecast said thunder and rain at the coast. Great. Our flight was delayed due to bad weather in the airport aswel but we left not too long after. We left Medellin on the tiniest aeroplane ever - we thought that the Bolivian one was small! As we descended to the coast we entered a thunderstorm, as predicted, and had to have a second bumpy attempt at landing. The plane was shaking and swaying so much but once we landed the rain stopped luckily. The "airport" was just a shack and a trailer for the luggage. A traveller waiting to leave told us good luck on the boat ride, which we had heard was supposed to be a little, well, scary to say the least. There are no cars there as it is only accessible by plane or boat. So instead we hopped on a horse and cart with an excessively happy smiling man and slowly made our way into the local village and onto the pier where we'd be getting the boat to Capurgana.

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When we got the pier the boat had just pulled in and there was this guy holding up his computer while water poured out of it. And, we mean, poured. Not only his computer but all his gadgets and personal items were completely soaked. Kathrin and I gave each other this look which instantly told each other "what the hell are we doing". We were the only foreigners there, we were getting into a boat that just flooded with water from the waves out at sea and it was cloudy and wet. Not the paradaisical week we had pictured beforehand! Eventually the boat left and we headed out to the sea. This boat ride was insane! Over every wave the front end crashed down into the water onto what felt like concrete. It was nowhere near soft. Over almost every wave we were lifted off our seats - I didn't know which was going to break first, my back, or the boat. Best thing of all was, between us this baby in its mother's lap was fast asleep throughout the whole journey. And us clinging onto whatever we could grab ahold of to keep ourselves planted on the seats.

As we entered the bay of Capurgana of course our motor broke down and we had to be towed into the dock. We both breathed a sigh of relief when we stepped off that boat.

After asking a random guy where our hostel was, we made it to our cute cabin style accommodation, right by the sea with really lovely hosts. They even gave us a private room because it was empty, even though we ordered a dorm. Unfortunately, it was cloudy, and we were a bit bummed as we'd been hoping to get a week of sunshine before leaving - it is the Carribean! Nevertheless we spent the afternoon in a hammock and walking round tiny Capurgana which was full of activity.

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The next day we headed for the beach despite the clouds and spent the day relaxing, reading and getting washed up in the lovely warm clear Carribean water. The sun poked out a little bit every now and then throughout the day. After dinner, the electricity went out and we had to resort to candles for while. We started a poker game with the other travellers there but I was fast out. Unlucky!

The third day we finally woke up to bright blue sunshine so we quickly packed our bags for the beach again. However, before we finished breakfast a huge grey cloud covered the sky with no visible end. So we slumped in our chairs and washed the dishes. Come on sun!!! Then it miraculously came out again and we spent the day on the beach! The weather there is so changeable. We took the hostel's free snorkelling gear and spent a lot of time in the shallows with some fish that would follow our feet along the ocean floor. There was a really strong current so we didn't venture out too far. I went out a little bit and saw some fish feeding on a reef thing but got freaked out (watched to many shark documentaries) and swam panicked back to the shallows. It was cool... I was cool...
The evening was spent reading in hammocks, eating, chatting and playing cards with other hostel dwellers. It was a very relaxing day, no stress (except for the shark attack) which was just what we needed.

Almost every night there had been a thunder storm and what felt like torrential rain which kept us up. The rain was so heavy and the thunder cracked so loud it would make you jump.

On our fourth day we decided to hike through the jungle to the next town, or village, Sapzurro. We made some peanut butter and jam sandwiches and headed off, and within 10 mins or even less, we were sweating more than we had ever sweat before. It was so humid and hot in the jungle area as the dense growth above us keeps all the moisture in. At one point a squirrel ran across the path in front of us followed by the biggest snake we've seen in the wild. Fair enough it was only the second we'd seen (we saw the anaconda in the Bolivian jungle), but this thing was at least 1.5 meters. It was huge, and was black with white stripes/colours around the head and neck. It was pretty scary but didn't seem concerned with us as it followed the squirrel into the bush. It was really muddy from the storm the night before so we slipped our way up and down the hills all the way until we eventually reached Sapzurro almost 2 hours later. Soaked in sweat and mud, we walked along the deserted beach towards the town. We'd been recommended "El Chileno" as a place to stay by our host in Capurgana. It was one of the first places along the beach and they had plenty of space. The guy working there was really friendly and we chose a private room with a bathroom as it was only £7 each a night anyway. One of the best things about the hostel was that in the back yard they had two massive mango trees with mangoes all over the floor. There was also a coconut tree too. After filling ourselves with delicious mango, we headed into town to the beach. It was cloudy and humid but it didn't matter too much, we just wanted to look. Besides we had enough sun the day before - snorkelling isn't the best angle to stay out of the sun 😕

The beach was empty. It was just what we wanted, bar from no sun.

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We bumped into a German couple from Capurgana (they were there on a day trip) and we joined them in the short walk over the next hill into Panama. You can go over to the beach there without officially entering Panama, you just have to show your passport. The beach there was supposed to be "white sand" but the water level was really high so we didn't see much. There were however a bunch of army guys clearing the paths while their machine guns rested on nearby palm trees, and we got a picture with them! Haha. Bit random but they wanted to take a picture with us just as much as we wanted a picture with them! The German couple got the boat back to Capurgana and we headed back to the hostel where I spent the best part of half an hour hacking at a coconut with a machete, to no avail. You'd think the hard shell is the problem but the outer thick, fleshy, fibrous part is a nightmare to get off and requires technique. A passerby/local saw me and helped out. After that I was the "master coconut opener" and opened two more coconuts I'd found the next day in about 15 minutes each haha. Still tough work! We also found an avocado tree, and to our luck, one avocado sitting on the ground. So between the mangos, coconut and the avocado, we didn't need to buy much else haha.

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Normally it just rained during the night but it continued that night into the next day when we woke up. It was okay though. We were a little disappointed that the sun wasn't out, but we were still in paradise! And not the luxurious paradise that one might imagine. Pure, raw paradise, with the jungle at your doorstep, no real reason to shower (due to continuous mud and humidity), the view of the sea from a hammock and a good book. Oh and I forgot to mention there were cats. Yes, to top it off there were 4 extremely affectionate cats who wanted nothing more than to be stroked and cuddled with. They would sit outside our bedroom door and wait for us to come out - it was hilarious.

Sapzurro, we learned, used to be the drug smuggling route from Colombia to Central America (and onwards to the USA) during the reign of Pablo Escobar, the infamous druglord, and we were told that it's still in use today - although of course not to such an extreme extent! Perhaps that is why it is still an undiscovered piece of paradise - because no one wants to go there! Haha. Apparently on one of the "smuggling beaches" you can still witness men running around with guns, so, we did not venture over there. They apparently don't bother tourists very much though, so long as you don't take any pictures of them!

Our final day in Sapzurro was beautiful. Instead of making the trek back to Capurgana we took the 10 minute boat ride in the lovely morning sun. Yup, the sun came out on our last day! Back in Capurgana we spent our last day soaking up the lovely sun, swimming in the bath like water and really enjoying our final day in paradise. No stress, no internet, no organising, no pressure. It's was a perfect way to top off our trip and we were heading home in 4 days time!

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The boat back to Acandi (the airport town) was not as bad as the previous journey over. The sea was calm and flat so we made it back, dry and happy. The flight back to Medellin was smooth also with no problems as we said goodbye to our little miniature holiday by the beach!

4 days left and we were really beginning to reflect on our trip and all that we'd seen and done.

Almost finished our big trip!

Posted by TomAndKat 06:23 Archived in Colombia Comments (1)

Colombia

The Beginning of the End

sunny 31 °C

Colombia was great from the start, probably because we were excited about it and also because we met some lovely people straight off the bat. On the plane we met lovely Eliza and Kelly and at the airport we met Tom and Marcus . We shared a taxi with them to town and had a lovely evening with Kelly and the boys, eating vegetarian food and having a few happy hour drinks.

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The neighborhood that we were in, La Candelaria, was a cool bohemian style place with lovely muriels and quirky little shops. Our hostel was also super sweet with the loveliest people who agreed to store our big bags for the duration of our 2 week colombian trip. This was so kind as it allowed us cheaper and easier travel over the following 2 weeks. Our second day in Bogota we spent at a small flea market at the outskirts of town, then we went to the famous gold museum. As it was a Sunday it was free entrance, wahoo! The museum was cool with loads and loads of gold and lots of interesting information. After the museum we met up with the boys and had a quick meal with them again before departing for the airport.

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At the airport we randomly bumped into Eliza and her friends and shared yet another cab with her once we landed in Cartagena. In Cartagena we stayed in the old town which was surrounded by the old wall. The Spanish built it back in the day after being attacked and robbed on several occasions by pirates. The old town was so beautiful. It's full of old colonial houses and buildings with pretty balconies, painted in lots of different beautiful colors and covered in vines. Every new street offers lovely architecture, cafe's, ice cream parlours and fancy shops. The town is also full of horse drawn carriages which really takes you back in time. We spent 4 days here taking in the sites and going to the not so fancy, but functional, beach. We had a great time getting burnt, riding a jet ski, eating frozen yoghurt and drinking some yummy coffee. We had one night out where we met Eliza and friends, dancing on the roof of a hostel. It was good fun :)

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Our final night we went to this semi famous restaurant in the old town called "La Cevicheria". Here we had amazing ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice) and beautiful grilled red snapper fish with the most tastiest coconut rice. I hope we are able to recreate the rice somehow, it was just so tasty! To top off the night we headed for an ice cream shop for a scoop of yumminess, or two. Perfect night!

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The next morning we were off to the airport again and off to Medellin. We had been deciding between going further north of Cartagena to Santa Marta and Tyrona or going to the northwest of colombia to Capurgana and Sapzurro. We ended up deciding on the latter as it offered more of a secluded and less touristy beach destination. So the plan was one night in Medellin then one week in the Caribbean coast. Unfortunately, after trekking for 30 min to get to the airport to by our tickets in Medellin, we were told they were sold out. So after a lot of back and forth we were finally told there were some more expensive seats available for the day after. Thank goodness! I was about to have a break down, all I wanted was the beach and the Caribbean.

We spent our time in Medellin sorting ourselves out, eating all the free samples at the massive supermarket, and doing a little shopping. You could almost have a whole meal there with all the free samples! It was weirdly nice to do something as "normal" as going to a mall. Tom bought a loadof clothes and our only issue now is getting all our stuff home, although most of my clothes are worn and aching to be thrown out.

Our colombian trip so far has been pretty chilled and relaxing, just what we wanted it to be. Our final "trip" within our trip is up next, the colombian coast and the carribean!

Much love, Katty

Posted by TomAndKat 07:23 Archived in Colombia Comments (0)

The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

4 day hike to the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu

sunny 18 °C

So normally we both write individual articles and then merge thm together to form one blog, however, with the Inca Trail we decided to post each of our experiences separately, as they were very different to each other. As it was the pinnacle of our trip and had been long awaited, we both had different feelings and dealt with the trekk in different ways. So here is it!

Tom's Experience

Boy had we no idea what we were in for. Over 45km of stones laid down by hand more than 600 years ago to allow the Incan civilisation to cleanse themselves by walking to Machu Picchu. Although the ancient city of Machu Picchu sits on a lower altitude than Cusco (by about 1000m), the first 2 days of trekking were up hill. Steps and steps, and seeming like we were getting nowhere it was pretty tough. As it was a 4 day trek we had to carry all our gear on our backs which for me added, about 15kg. I also got the tattoo the day before leaving which, yes, perhaps wasn't the best choice I have ever made, but hey, you only live once! So with leg burning, back burning and sweat dripping from every inch of my body, I had realised we'd only been 15 minutes into the trail. It was at about this time that it dawned on me what I had signed up for!

It wasn't all doom and gloom though at all. As we began to ascend on the first day, we quickly realised why the Incas had chosen this place to lay their trail. It passes through the sacred valley, an area so called due to it's extremely rich soils and beautiful fertile land. With steep mountains on either side of us, we walked over the "Inca flat" as our guide liked to call it. Inca flat is not flat. Inca flat is up and down apparently but I swear it was mostly up! Stopping for lunch we realised why other travellers had raved about the food on the Inca Trail. Each group have porters whom carry the tents, food, tables, chairs, in fact, everything that you would find in a well stocked kitchen and dining room - they carried it! There were 19 porters for our 14 strong group of hikers and they passed us out during the first 15 seconds of the hike. We were greeted with mountainous amounts of food (haha mountainous...), and luxury and service you'd expect to find in a hotel. After stuffing our bellies full, and before we had 5 minutes rest, they had all the dining and kitchen tents down and back in bags and off they went to set up the next camp for the evening. We did a lot of research about the Inca Trek prior to booking and we chose our company because they take care of their porters and only allow them to carry maximum 20kg, 6kg lighter than the government regulation of 26kg. Before the regulations came in, porters were severely underpaid by trekking companies and often carried loads on their backs of upto 50kg. They do work very hard!

After finishing the first day of the hike, and the sun set behind the backdrop of the beautiful mountiains, our guide told us of day 2, the hardest day of the four. 11 hours of hiking in order to reach the next camp before dinner and the trail led us over 2 mountain passes which meant up hill all day. That morning we got up before sunrise and set off. If we thought the first day was bad, this was some serious hiking. As porters pretty much ran passed us, we just gawked at them in surprise, and envy! Day 2 was very tough and I had to push boundaries in my mind that I had never reached before. It was a very challenging day and once we finally made it to the top of the first pass at 4200m, we had an overwhelming sense of triumph. Kathrin's face in the picture below sums up our feelings about that day! After group pictures and a short rest we trekked on to the second mountain pass which was a little lower. Day 3 and 4 would be pretty much down as we had to descend to 2400m to where Machu Picchu lay. God knows why the Incas wanted to go so far up before going down. Cusco sits at 3400m which would have meant only descending 1000m to reach the ancient city!

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On our way over the third day we passed by many small "look out" remains and resting houses for the people who used to walk the trail. Our guide told us moore and more info about the Incas and there way of life which was really interesting. The trail on the third day was flat and mostly down, which was a nice bonus with some of the most stunning scenery I have ever seen. Lush green mountains covered in misty clouds and bright blue sky, I cld have stayed there forever. On the end of the third day we finally made it to the last set of steep stairs that ended in the Sun Gate. We almost ran up as we knew at the top we'd get the first glimpse of Machu Picchu which meant the end was nigh. And what a beautiful site it was. We spent ages sitting there watching the city and taking pictures - we'd completed the Inca Trail! Or so we thought. We stilll had to walk for about another hour or so to reach it! After passing a herd of llamas, with whom we took some cheeky selfies (see pictures) we made it to the iconic viewpont of Machu Picchu. It was amazing and we made sure to take some time to enjoy this amazing once in a lifetime opportunity. It was really special.

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That night we stayed in the little town of Aguas Calientes, at the bottom of the mountain (MP sits at the top). We actually slept on the floor of a restaurant in sleeping bags that night, aong with another couple from our group who didn't want to spend extra to stay in a hostel. I slept like a log, even though the trains would rattle passed outisde well into the night. Yeah there are no cars in Aguas Calientes. The streets are train tracks! Was pretty cool. The next day we headed up early with the group and had a tour of the ancient city with our guide. It's an amazing place, with soo much history that is both known and unknown. One of the reasons it is so special is because it was one of the few Inca sites that the spanish never found when they conquered South America. I am not surprised though, I couldn't imagine a spanish army clambering up and down all those steps for 4 days!

The spanish destroyed most Incan temples and buildings, supposedly because they didn't believe they could have been made by men. The Incas were a very smart race for their time. Sure they carved a city out of a mountain! The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu was the highlight of our trip, and I'd happily take all those steps again just to get one more look!

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Katty's Experience

Let me just start by saying this was one of the most challenging things I've done, and I was so far from prepared for it!

We signed up for the trek 6 months or so ago, and I didn't think much of it at the time. It would be 4 days of walking, with breaks and food along the way. Easy peasy. I was wrong.

Our trek began at "kilometer 82" after a few hours on a bus and breakfast of course! But before the trek could start we had to battle the swarms of locals selling straps, hats, bandanas etc. and waterbottle carriers (which I bought). It was crazy and I almost felt I had to swat them away as they wouldn't leave and gave me no space to pack my bag. As well as clothes and supplies, we had to carry our sleeping bags and mats which made my total bag weigh around 8kg including a 2.5l water bottle. It was heavy but not too bad. However my newly acquired backpack broke as soon as I tried to strap the mat to it...NO FUN! All packed and ready our group queued up, got our entry stamp, took a group photo and finally started the trek.

Day one wasn't too bad; 3 hours of "inca flat" which in the Andes means mild ups and downs as there is no "flat" there. I managed this part fairly well, getting used to the pack on my back and the sun on my face. I was also getting used to new shoes which I had rented for the hike, they were a good choice even if they did give me blisters.

After three hours we got to a camp where our porters had set up a kitchen tent and a dining tent fully set with a tablecloth and all. Lunch was an amazing 3 course meal: guacamole with chips, soup and finished with rice veggies and meat. The place were we were having lunch was teaming with animals, donkeys, chickens, turkeys, cats, dogs, ducks etc. It was almost like a farm!

After lunch I accidentally used the men's bathroom, a disgusting hole in the floor which you have to squat over and try not to fall in to! Unfortunately the ladies toilet was identical and the same throughout the 3 days! Technically it's like peeing when your camping, except you have walls and can flush the toilet, so really I should have been pleased. It was definitely an experience and one I will not miss!

The second part of the day was a bit harder, especially the last part which was partly up a mountain to our first camp. Stepping, or rather collapsing in camp, it was so nice to have all our tents already set up and dinner on the "stove". It was quite cold on the mountain after the sun disappeared, so Tom and I huddled together in a tent playing cards with a Canadian couple we had met. Before even starting this journey I had heard from other travelers that day two was really tough and our guide confirmed that it would be the longest and toughest day. He told us we would be walking for 11h, the first 5 being a steep upward climb followed by 2 hours of steep steps down, lunch, then another tough 2 hours up and 2 down before reaching camp. Needless to say I went to bed with an uneasy feeling that night!

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Day 2 started with a wake up call at 5 by our porters serving us coca tea, then we all gathered for a big breakfast in our dining tent. Fruit, granola, yoghurt, bread, tea, all was consumed in preparation for a big day. The night before we had been informed of the rough day and were given the option of buying the service of a porter. I teamed up with a British couple and we left our sleeping bags and mats at a fee to lighten our load for the day. And then the trekking began.

It was an excruciatingly hard first hour and a half. Steep upwards climb, lots of steps and just no flat at all. I was at the back with a British girl and an Australian girl. We struggled together, taking it slow and breaking every few minutes to catch our breath. It wasn't just that it was steep and loads of steps, we were gaining altitude as well which meant we were losing oxygen, making it even harder. It was really tough, I was sweating and freezing at the same time. Finally, 10 min before the first stop, Tom came jogging down to meet me, the saint that he is, he took my bag and helped me the final bit. It had been such a tough hike and the prospect of another 3 hours of it made me breakdown and embarrassing as it is to admit, I cried a little. But freezing, miserable and trying to catch my breath, we were informed that because we were so much faster than the average group (even me and my pals in the back) we would only have about 1.5 more hours to go. Relief flooded me and I regained some motivation.

The final part to the top was just as tough, but not as steep. Slowly we climbed, the top now in our sights. We stopped at times to regain our breath and enjoy the spectacular views. The nature is so stunning, the mountains and valleys are massive and covered in lush greens. The sky blue with mysterious fog and clouds creeping forward. It was stunning. As we collapsed at the top, the fastest group members clapped and congratulated us. Happiness and a lightness filled my body, I had done it! I was exhausted, but I felt strong and even a bit invincible. We had made the journey to the first pass, which an average group normally uses 5 hours to reach, in just 3.5. It was definitely a win in my books.

Although the next 2 hours were all down, it was steep steps down. It wasn't as tough as up, but still tiring and hard on our joints and tips of our toes. As we descended the sun came out, the climate changed and suddenly nature seemed a bit more Amazonian. We had reached the start of the rainforest. We saw beautiful butterflies, a lovely bird in its nest, llamas and a few deer too. It was wonderful, like nature was awarding us for completing that first horrible pass.

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Throughout the hike, our 19 porters and the porters from other groups, would frequently pass us. The small men with massive packs (often the size of themselves) on their backs, carrying tables, chairs, food, tents, water, sometimes only in sandals, would fly past us, running at times both up and down. These men, mostly aged between 20 and 52 (although, we were told the oldest man still working was 72!!!) were extraordinary to watch, not scared of falling, not tired from hauling, hurrying to reach camp before us so they could set up and prepare for our arrival. Absolutely insane and amazing, but honestly, I felt quite bad and sorry for these men at times. I know they supposedly enjoy the work and get paid quite well, but seeing some of the porters and the stuff they had to carry, seeing them exhausted but pushing on and then having them serve and clean up after me, I felt pretty guilty. Because of these wonderful, shy, hard working people, we reached camp just in time for dinner, tents and toilets all set up. Food was again tasty and plentiful, soup was always the starter, followed by bits of steak with yummy veggies, potatoes and pasta. We even got dessert, jello and peach. After dinner we were introduced to our porters. They stood around our table shyly telling us their name, age and home town. A lot of them were farmers who work as porters during high season. Tired faces, rough hands, but always kind and helpful.

Another early night and another early start. Because we were such a fast group, we were allowed an extra 30 minutes in bed, so wake up call and coca tea was served at 5.30. I had informed the guide the day before that it was Tom's birthday, so when I stepped out that morning to get a light from my tent, the guide approached me with a big cake made by the chef. I got to carry it in to the tent and we all sang for Tom. With our bellies full of cake, day 3 started. A gentle uphill hike was first of the itinerary, followed by inka flat (so, not flat) and stunning views. I honestly can't get over how beautiful the surroundings were. Imagine those amazing nature and scenery scenes from movies; breathtaking and unreal, that's what it was like.

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After the 2nd day, everything seemed easy. I was happy and light, even though I was carrying more that day then day 2. We reached cloud mountain which normally is cloudy, but luckily for us was stunningly clear. We could see Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu mountain (not the city behind), several ruins and just pure beautiful nature. Downhill again it went, for hours we banged down on sore knees and ankles, stopping to explore ruins and get history lessons. The weather stayed brilliant and we made it to our lunch camp in good time. This particular camp was supposed to have been our camp for the third night, but due to heavy rain and land slides in the previous weeks, the camp was unsuitable and unsafe. So after lunch we had another few hours of walking before the day's end. The final hour to the sun gate was particularly steep and nasty with several false summits!

We reached the sun gate sweaty but happy, and laid our eyes on Machu Picchu for the first time. I can't quite explain how I was feeling, MP was still quite far away so it didn't look like what I had imagined. I also felt weird because I felt the journey was over, even though we had another 40 minutes to reach the entrance and a whole second day to explore the site. But the feeling was fleeting and I was soon filled with joy, excitement and a sense of accomplishment. Right before getting to the entrance of Machu Picchu, we were joined by a few llamas. Unsure of their intentions, we got stuck behind them snapping selfies as we tried to sneak past. It was a hilarious 15 minutes and one I'm not going to forget any time soon. But what awaited us passed the llamas was our prize. The goal, the reason for the pain and torture of the past 3 days.

Machu Picchu, almost empty, sun shining and just a sight for sore eyes. Wonderful, mysterious, historical and perfect. We were at the top of the site, viewing it from the typical picture angle with the Wayna Picchu mountain in the background. It was pretty surreal finally standing there after several months of planning, waiting and traveling. The famous, mysterious Machu Picchu at our feet - our tired, blistered and sore feet.

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Pictures were taken, our passports were stamped and darkness was approaching. But we were not done yet! As the price of the trek only included 1 bus ticket, we had to chose when we wanted to use it. We had three choices, take the bus down to Aguas calientes that evening, the next morning back up to MP or down after or second day of MP exploring. I had absolutely no desire to walk two hours the next morning at 6, on steep nasty steps, so we walked down to town. My feet were wrecked and my body covered in dirt and sweat, but we made it to our meeting point, a restaurant right next to the train tracks.

The restaurant was also the place were we slept that night, however the only people who chose this (free) option, was the Canadian couple and us. I passed out right away and awoke to yet another early start, but at least it was the last one. We rode the bus up to Machu Picchu and had a fabulous tour, viewing of the sun rise, and an all around awesome day at the ruins. It was fantastic, such a great journey and such a great end. Great weather all along, great people, great food and great tour. I am so happy and proud of myself for completing the trek. I wouldn't do it again right now, but I hope to do it again in the future, when I am a bit more fit ;) haha.

So that both our experiences of our amazing 4 day Inca Trek. We had the time of our lives and will cherish our amazing memories and photos forever!

Thanks for reading,

Tom and Kat :)

Posted by TomAndKat 20:30 Archived in Peru Comments (1)

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